In Amsterdam-Noord, I step with my bike onto the ferry to the city center.
On board, a Dutchman has gathered around him a group of foreigners.
Could well be a field trip.
The group hangs on his every word as the man explains the Dutch character.
Intrigued, I slide my bike a little closer so as not to miss a word.
It is not unusual for foreigners to hear stories about the Dutch. For example, when they take a canal cruise.
The truth of these stories is often debatable, as I can report from my own experience as a houseboat resident who hears quite a bit of nonsense about living on the water stemming from tour boats whizzing by.
But this man seems to know what he’s talkin’ about.
While riding the ferry, he explains that the Dutch, and especially Amsterdammers, have always been a trading nation. This is how in 1602 the world's first stock exchange was created in this city. For that reason, Amsterdammers had no interest in condemning certain demographics. After all, every person is a potential trading partner or customer.
Any negative statement about a particular group comes at the expense of the business.
That’s why, the man attests as his audience nods in agreement, Amsterdam is such a notorious tolerant city.
A sanctuary for nationalities, ideas and religions that have lived here in harmony for centuries. No less than 180 nationalities at the moment, on a population of far less than a million.
The man goes on to explain why the Dutch are so direct when doing business.
Rather than with their trading nature, it has to do with the water over which we now approach the city center.
The Dutch have been fighting the water for centuries. Not for a second can attention to its dangers slacken. Hence Dutch people have no time for superfluous pleasantries and formalities, the man claims. They get straight to the point.
Hurry up, close the deal! After all, the water could come at any moment.
Arriving at the jetty on the other side, all cyclists do not know how fast to speed off the deck, skimming close past the stunned group and their guide.
Some shouting ‘Opzij, duffe toeristen.’ (Move over, daft tourists!)
They seem to have no time to waste. As if the water is nipping at their heels.
Sure, I am Always Talkin’ Food, but I teach NT2 (Dutch as a second language) on the side. Mainly to young internationals who came to Amsterdam for or with love and intend to stay. For privacy reasons the names in these columns are fictitious.
Food lingo
Meringue - het schuimgebak
Nougatine - de nougatine
Hazelnut - de hazelnoot
Mocha - de mokka
Pastries gone by
There are many indie bakers in Amsterdam these days, but the number of traditional artisanal bakers and pastry shops is dwindling. Still going strong since 1970 is Arnold Cornelis. A patissier in the traditional sense of the word, which means his assortment includes all kinds of local and national classics. Like het mokka-hazelnootschuimgebakje (mocha hazelnut meringue pastry). A small, sugary concoction of meringue, nougatine (which was first created round 1850 by the French confectioner Jean-Louis-Bourumeau), hazelnuts and mocha cream. Its history may not go all the way back to the first stock exchange, but it's still a sweet monument from days gone by.
Also a great address for oliebollen, a typical Dutch New Year’s treat.
Arnold Cornelis, Van Baerlestraat 93 Amsterdam (+ 2 other addresses). Open Mon-Fri 8 AM-6 PM, Sat 8 AM-5 PM.